By John Curtas

The most asked question of any restaurant reviewer in Las Vegas (or at least this one), is: "What is your favorite restaurant off the strip?" The question used to bother me because I can't stand people who shun the strip like a bad habit. Let's face it; that's where the goods are when it comes to eatin' and drinkin'. But there are two places I go almost every week, that aren't franchises, aren't on the strip, and are tops in their class for quality of food and making you feel like one of the family. What they have in common is old-school values, industriousness and pride of product that you'll never find at a food factory. And the fact that they're incredible bargains doesn't hurt either.

What I like about Marche Bacchus is just about everything. First of all, it's a restaurant in a wine store-how groovy is that? -Which means that you can drink some of the best wine in Las Vegas at prices two-thirds less than you'd pay for the same bottle elsewhere. Another thing I love is that owners Gregoire and Agate Verge aren't looking to sell out, create a concept, or become entrepreneurs. They're salt of the earth folks whose life's work is running a quality establishment and keeping their customers happy. How many restaurant owners can you say that about? Usually it's all about the fame, expansion, money or whatever, but these two and their quality crew seem content to dish out solid French Bistro fare that sends everyone away smiling.

MARCHE BACCHUS
Restaurant Review: Highly Recommended
2620 Regatta Drive 3106 Las Vegas, NV 89128 Phone number is 804-8008

And what food it is. Chef Andre Courreges -does a roast chicken in a garlic reduction sauce to die for and his filet with crushed pepper or salmon in mustard sauce, or steak frites won't disappoint either. The cheese platters are nice and the salads even nicer, but what I like most about the menu-besides the way it tastes-is that it's short. They play to their strengths here and it shows: six entrees, eight appetizers, a special or two and everything done to a "T." With a recent expansion, Marche Bacchus now boasts a tasting room and cooking classes, as well as one of the best outdoor dining patios in town. It is a success story that every chef and owner should look to for inspiration and common sense about what we need more of in our food scene here.

My only complaint is that the restaurant isn't closer to my house. But then again, if it was, this reviewers liver and my wine racks might finally give out on me.

John Curtas is a full-time Commercial Litigator and Business Attorney, and part-time restaurant reviewer, who has hosted KNPR's "Food For Thought" since 1995. He can be heard reviewing the restaurants of Las Vegas Thursdays at 88.9 FM. When not eating his way around Las Vegas, Mr. Curtas can be found trying cases in both State and Federal Courts.

Las Vegas Restaurant Review # 1